Hard to believe now, but sushi—considered a staple of most New Yorkers' diets—didn’t start to catch on in the U.S. until the 1960s and ’70s. There were a number of geopolitical issues I’m not touching… and overall, the American palate has come a long way. I like to think as a New Yorker, we’ve always been on the cutting edge of food exploration.
Craig Claiborne, writing for The New York Times dining section during that decade, was excited by international cuisine and kept tabs on the city’s numerous Japanese restaurants. He declared Japanese food a trend in New York after two establishments opened in 1963, noting that, “New Yorkers seem to take to the raw fish dishes, sashimi and sushi, with almost the same enthusiasm they display for tempura and sukiyaki.” However, he admitted, “sushi may seem a trifle too ‘far out’ for many American palates.”
Fast forward to 2025, and there’s a sushi joint on every corner—from the $800 omakase to the hole-in-the-wall neighborhood dive that delivers on the low.
Here are a few of my favorites:
Omakase
Sushi Noz
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to Ryan’s Substack to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.